Saracen has revealed its 2016 road and mountain bike lines. We’ve pulled together a few highlights from each range for you to ponder below.
Saracen’s much loved Kili Flyer model now has a longer stroke shock at the rear meaning you’ll get 130mm of travel rather than the 120mm of the current frame. Those looking for a complete Kili Flyer will only have one option, and it’s a pretty interesting one â€“ the Â£3,699 Kili Flyer Elite packs Shimano’s latest XT M8000 groupset in 1x flavour, a factory spec Fox 34 Float 130mm fork up front and a matching Float EVOL shock in its frame. The wheels are Durox 27.5-inch models from partner brand Kore and are shod in some of the most interesting tyres we’ve seen for a while â€“ limited edition tan wall Maxxis Ardents. Like them or loathe them, we think they’ll sell well. The package also includes a KS Lev remote dropper, with the claimed overall bike weight given as 12.87kg/28.4lb.
The Saracen Kili Flyer Elite 2016
If you haven’t got the coin for that full build or want to build up a Kili Flyer your own way then Saracen also sells it as a frameset for a penny shy of Â£2,000 (Porsche not included).
You can read more at BikeRadar.com
Easton today officially announced its new ARC aluminium mountain bike rims for riders that prefer to build their own wheels. The tubeless-ready rims will be offered in three different widths and two diameters, theyâ€™re impressively light, and their reasonable prices are within reach of mere mortals.
Easton’s new ARC rim specs are quite impressive, at least based on company claims
Easton says the ARCâ€™s multiple rim widths are intended to fulfill the needs of a broad spectrum of riders, from XC to trail to enduro. And while the rim dimensions are much wider than anything else Easton has produced to date, advancements in aluminium extrusion, alloy, and heat treatment technology have brought the weights down.
According to Eastonâ€™s senior manager of product creation, Adam Marriott, the 24mm-wide ARC is in fact lighter than the rim used in the current 21mm-wide Haven.
You can read more at BikeRadar.com
As with any upgrade, when shopping for new disc brakes you first need to work out what you need or want from them, compared with what you have now. If itâ€™s simply more power, for instance, you might be able to get that by upgrading to a larger rotor.
If your brakes used to be fine but have become unreliable, the levers or pistons are sticking, or theyâ€™ve lost power, donâ€™t assume you need new stoppers. A thorough service/bleed/pad change might get them back to full working order for a fraction of the price. Even if your brakes have never felt great, itâ€™s worth reading the relevant brake reviews here on BikeRadar. Itâ€™s a great way to see if your set is performing like it should or whether youâ€™ve got a warranty case.
If you definitely need fresh brakes but your rotors and brackets are the right size, choose a brake that comes just as the lever/body, hose and caliper rather than buying extra rotors and mounts you donâ€™t need.
When it comes to buying your new brakes, make sure they solve the problems you have with the old ones. Try as many different models on the trail (pester your mates) before buying to see how different they can feel and narrow down what you like. If you donâ€™t like the lever feel or positioning of your current brakes, it might be worth investing in a set with bite point adjustment or cam style leverage changes. Read our reviews to check that these features live up to their promise though, because some are more ornamental than useful.
If your current stoppers feel wooden or lack fine control, look for brakes that get praised for excellent modulation. If you want more power, check out our dynometer readings. If you want to shed grams, have a look at the weights on our scales â€“ you might be surprised at how these compare with the manufacturerâ€™s figure. (NB: All brakes have been weighed, priced and tested with 180mm rotors and full post mount kit.) Remember that using a 160mm rather than 180mm front rotor can save up to 50g in bracket and rotor weight, though you will lose a little power.
If you want a brake thatâ€™s easy to look after at home, then check our long-term reliability reports, how easy they are to set up in the first place or bleed and service later down the line. Think about pads too â€“ thankfully, many budget brake manufacturers are now smart enough to make their stoppers work with widely available Shimano or Avid pads. Itâ€™s still something thatâ€™s worth checking if you travel a lot with your bike though.
You can read more at BikeRadar.com
Port slowdown has little effect on fiscal-year earnings but is expected to have an adverse impact in early 2015.
Get a free issue of What Mountain Bike magazine
What Mountain Bike magazine has got itself a new, all-singing, all-dancing app for iPhone and iPad users, and to celebrate, it’s giving away an issue of the magazine completely free.
All you have to do is download the What Mountain Bike app from iTunes and then select the December 2014 issue. If you choose to subscribe, you’ll also get the current issue of the magazine absolutely free, as well as getting a discounted price on the subscription – and you’ll never miss an issue.
What Mountain Bike is filled with in-depth kit reviews and inspiring features. It’s packed full of new products that have been ridden and rated each month. So whether you’re new to mountain biking or a seasoned veteran, it has the advice and insight to help you get the most out of the most of the.
The app is also packed with additional pictures and interactive content, making it ideal for anyone who loves mountain biking.
You can read more at BikeRadar.com
EUGENE, Ore. (BRAIN) — Rolf Prima has promoted Pete Moe to sales manager, where he will also oversee international sales.
SALT LAKE CITY (BRAIN) — Zach Vestal. formerly of Mavic and VeloNews, is joining Scott Sports as its new bike marketing manager in the U.S. “Zach’s industry relationships and knowledge make him the perfect fit for the bike marketing position at Scott,” said U.S
There are many different saddles on the market, and for good reason: there’s a huge variety of riders.
Choosing a saddle can be a challenge, but it’s worth putting the effort in to find the right one for you, and the key thing to look for is comfort – the more comfortable you are, the longer (and faster) you’ll be able to ride.
Unfortunately, saddle comfort is extremely subjective – ask a dozen riders what the most comfortable saddle is and you’ll get a dozen answers. This isn’t surprising – when you sit on a bike, your weight rests on a pair of bones collectively called the ischial tuberosity or, more familiarly, the sit bones. These are positioned differently in different riders.
Not only that, but depending on your riding style and bike set-up, you’ll experience pressure on different areas to the next rider.
Choosing the right saddle tends to be an iterative process – most experienced riders have tried a few before settling on a favourite. To avoid buying a succession of saddles, think about what it is with your current one that isn’t working for you.
If it’s just that it’s comfortable but knackered or just a bit heavy, then choosing a new one is fairly easy. The same saddle shape is usually available in a range of cost, material and weight variants, so upgrading within the same family is generally a safe bet.
A bigger challenge is replacing a saddle because it’s uncomfortable. This needs a bit of thought – try to pin down what it is that doesn’t work for you. If you feel you have to constantly correct your seating position, why not try a seat with a more pronounced dip to keep you in one place? Maybe it’s too wide and rubs your legs, or you like to sit on the nose but it’s hard and narrow? Use your observations of previous perches to narrow down your choice.
Figure out what it is you do and don’t like about your current saddle before choosing a new one
Once you’ve got a checklist, see if you can audition some likely candidates.
This might involve cadging rides on friends’ bikes or getting test rides at shop or manufacturer demo days. Some shops have lending schemes so you can get a few miles in before buying, and some manufacturers have 30-day ‘comfort guarantee’ schemes for risk-free purchasing.
There are variations between mountain bike and road cycling saddles – mountain bike saddles are usually made from stronger, more durable materials, and road bike saddles tend to be lighter, for example – but fundamentally, the things you need to consider to find one that suits you are the same.?
Mountain bike saddles need to be robust enough to cope with trail abuse
Here’s what you need to consider…
Most modern saddles use synthetic materials, although you’ll still find real leather on more expensive ones. The key thing is to make sure any seams, sticky bits or reinforcing panels don’t chafe. Mountain bike saddles are likely to suffer crashes, so a hard-wearing cover is essential.
The base of the saddle controls the basic shape and how springy it is. Several manufacturers produce different width or shaped shells for different physiques. The majority of saddles have a Nylon shell, but often there’ll be some carbon reinforcement. Really posh perches have all-carbon shells.
Some saddle shells have a groove in the centre or a hole cut out – this is designed to reduce pressure and heat around your sensitive veins and nerves.
This Specialized Rival saddle has a cutout in the centre to relieve pressure
Padding distributes pressure from your behind across the surface of the saddle. Polyurethane foam is the most common padding material – it comes in a range of densities to give firm or soft saddles. The crucial thing to remember is that while a soft, deep saddle might feel comfortable at first for a beginner, more contact and movement is likely to increase heat and discomfort the longer you’re in the saddle.
The padding in the Fizik Gobi is well placed and offers a good balance of firmness and comfort
The rails are the bars that the seatpost clamps onto under the saddle. Cheaper saddles use steel alloys, while titanium or carbon rails make for a lighter saddle. Single rail saddle and post systems are gaining ground in road cycling for their light weight and adjustability.
You’ll find all sorts of other touches on saddles, from Kevlar-reinforced corners or plastic bumpers, to built-in mounts for tail lights or saddle packs.
Trek today announced a brand-new Boone carbon fiber ‘cross bike for Katie Compton and new signings Sven Nys and Sven Vanthourenhout. While the bike itself is newsworthy, what also stood out was a pair of prototype Shimano pedals on Nys’s machine.
The new Shimano pedals bear a strong familial resemblance to the current PD-M970 XTR Race model with a cartridge-style spindle and retention hardware that appears to be wholly carried over. The new prototype pedals feature an aluminum body that’s much more pared down than the current version however, with minimal – if any – dedicated contact area for the shoe tread.
While increased contact area is generally regarded as a good thing when it comes to clipless pedals, some top cyclocrossers have voiced complaints that the current version’s increased platform doesn’t perform as well in mud as the previous version, which many racers continue to use. The slimmed-down body should alleviate this issue for more consistent engagement and release, plus we also expect it will be slightly lighter, too.
The prototype Shimano pedal spotted on Sven Nys’ new Trek Boone
We don’t have confirmation from Shimano on whether this prototype will eventually be added to the standard catalog but given the company’s usual mode of operation, it’s a safe bet that it will be. Since the current pedal’s larger body still holds benefits for general mountain bike use – which is still a much larger market than cyclocross – we anticipate that this may end up being billed as a CX-specific model that may not even use the XTR designation.
Stay tuned for more information.
BRISBANE, Australia (BRAIN) — BikeRoar.com , an Australia-based site that contains bike product information and links to IBDs, has added several new features to its site.