Nuts

New .bike extension has suppliers taking notice

LOS ANGELES (BRAIN) — The Internet Corporation for Assigned Names and Numbers (ICANN) has approved a host of new extension names, including .bike, as a new Top Level Domain with an open registry. Scott Kamler, president of Kent International, has registered Kentbicycles.bike along with Kentbicycles.com

Shimano XTR Di2 – Electronic shifting comes to mountain bikes

Shimano has today announced details of a new Di2 electronic version of its top-tier XTR mountain bike groupset.

Rumours, as well as leaked images of the group, have been floating around the net for some time, but now everything is official we can give you the full run-down.

XTR Di2 in a nutshell

XTR M9050 marks the first migration of electronic shifting technology into the world of mountain bikes. The system will use one battery and remain wired, using already proven parts from Shimano’s Ultegra and Dura-Ace road Di2 groups.

So what are the advantages? Shimano claims that XTR Di2 will offer faster and more accurate shifting. Also, with no cables to stretch, it’s said to offer shifting consistency that a mechanical transmission cannot match. Whether that’s true remains to be seen, but one part of XTR Di2 that we really should be taking notice of is Syncro Shift – for those who are running double or triple set-ups it could be a game changer.

Syncro Shift allows the rider to control both front and rear derailleurs with one shifter. Simply shift up or down and the transmission will follow a pre-programmed (and customisable) shifting map, moving both derailleurs when necessary to find the next ratio while maintaining a good chain line. So, that’s less clutter at the bar and more time to worry about things other than gear selection.

XTR Di2 shares its chainset, cassette and chain with Shimano’s recently announced?mechanical XTR M9000 groupset,?so that means Di2 options for single, double and triple transmissions.

Individual components

RD-M9050 rear derailleur

Well done shimano! the m9050 rear derailleur does a great job of hiding away its motor: well done shimano! the m9050 rear derailleur does a great job of hiding away its motor

The new M9050 rear derailleur does a great job of hiding away its motor, which is 50 percent more powerful than the one you’ll find in Shimano’s road Di2 derailleurs. That’s to combat the additional weight that muddy conditions can add to the components.

Just like its mechanical brother, the RD-M9050 has Shimano’s?


Shadow RD+

?clutch retention system. This means a rider can externally adjust the spring tension of the rear derailleur using an Allen key. The beauty of this is that with a motor controlling the shift, the tension at the clutch can be turned up to a level that would normally compromise shift performance for a mechanical mech.

The derailleur will be available in a short- and long-cage option, with the former weighing a claimed 289g.

FD-M9050 front derailleur

The front derailleur doesn't do this quite so well…: the front derailleur doesn't do this quite so well…

The XTR Di2 front derailleur is less subtle than its rear counterpart. It has a claimed weight of 115g and features the same auto trimming technology as the company’s Di2 road components.

SW-M9050 shifters

The shifter isn’t really a shifter – it’s simply a switch that has been given a short yet positive throw to try to replicate the feel of a conventional unit: the shifter isn’t really a shifter – it’s simply a switch that has been given a short yet positive throw to try to replicate the feel of a conventional unit

Thanks to Syncro Shift functionality, XTR Di2 can be set up to run with either one or two shifters at the handlebar, even with a triple chainset. The shifter isn’t really a shifter, it’s simply a switch that’s been given a short yet positive throw to try to replicate the feel of a conventional unit. The claimed weight is 64g per unit.

SC-M9050 system display

The bottom right of the lcd display features an indicator that displays information for fox's icd suspension system : the bottom right of the lcd display features an indicator that displays information for fox's icd suspension system

The brain of this groupset is a small handlebar mounted LCD display. While riding, the display communicates essential information such as battery level, gear position and shift mode (whether or not Synchro Shift is activated). It’s integrated with Fox’s electric iCD suspension adjustment system – where the bottom right of the display includes an element which shows the suspension mode of a compatible fork and shock. It certainly leaves the door open for nerdy types and perhaps other manufacturers to exploit in the future.

The display also functions as a charging point for the system and a connection to Shimano’s E-tube software, where – just like in Shimano’s road applications – riders can customise a wide range of functions.

Battery and wiring

Di2 xtr battery options: di2 xtr battery options

Bottle cage mount will not be the only option (L) – notice the wires emerging from the head tube (R)

The battery unit as well as the wiring for XTR Di2 are identical components to the ones used in Shimano’s electronic road groups. The battery can be mounted on a bottle cage, in a seat tube and can even be contained within the steerer unit of certain forks (although full details on this haven’t yet fully emerged).?

Pricing

Di2 technology has, just like it did for the first generation in the world of road, debuted at the top-end of Shimano’s mountain biking range. The pricing alone is likely to keep these parts out of the hands of anyone other than Shimano-sponsored athletes and the very wealthy.?

  • RDM9050GS – ?429.99 (Rear mech short cage)
  • RD9050SGS – ?429.99 (Rear mech long cage)
  • FDM9050 – ?269.99 (Front mech)
  • SWM9050R – ?149.99 (right switch/shiter)
  • SWM9050L – ?149.99 (left switch/shifter

Stay tuned to?BikeRadar?for our first ride impressions on XTR Di2 soon.








Trail Tech: How to set up tubeless mountain bike tyres

Setting up tubeless mountain bike tyres is nothing to be afraid of, but there is an easy way and a hard way to go about it. These five tips will save you the time and headaches that can accompany your first attempt at going tubeless.

1. Use tubeless (UST) or tubeless-ready tyres

This might seem elementary – almost not worth mentioning – except for the fact that many riders (myself included) have been running tyres designed for use with tubes without tubes many years. There’s no shortage of tubeless-ready or true UST tyres available these days (look for the badge), so stick with them for the most dependable tubeless setup.?

What’s the difference between UST and tubeless-ready tyres??UST stands for Universal Standard for Tubeless. This dictates tight tolerances between the tyre’s bead and the rim.?

UST tyres generally have an additional layer of butyl in the casing, to make them airtight without sealant. They also tend to be heavier and have stiffer casings, which is one reason tubeless-ready tyres have become more prevalent.?

Tubeless-ready tyres forgo the additional airtight layer, relying instead on sealant, but use a similar reinforced bead to aid in seating the tyre.

2. Use UST or tubeless-compatible rims

Again, it’s not rocket science. And, yes, many rims can be converted for tubeless use. Thankfully, the majority of mid- to high-end mountain bike wheelsets now come with UST or tubeless-compatible rims. As with tyres, there are some notable differences between UST and tubeless-compatible rims.

Stan’s NoTubes rims are the most prevalent tubeless-compatible design, and several other companies license the design. In a nutshell, NoTubes rims have a shallower drop channel (the center of the rim), which aids in initial inflation, and a tighter-fitting bead hook to hold the tyre in place.

Start by using a wheelset built with ust or tubeless compatible rims:

A number of companies license the Stan’s NoTubes tubeless rim profile

UST rims are made to work with UST-rated tyres, which generally ensures they will inflate with very little fuss. One downside of non-UST systems is the lack of adherence to tight tolerances between various rim and tyre manufacturers.

There can be enough variance between non-UST rims and tyres that one might need to add an additional layer, or two, of tubeless tape in order to create a tight enough interface to inflate the tyre with a floor pump. Try inflating the tyre without sealant first – if you can’t seat it then you might need to add an additional layer of rim tape.

3. Soapy water speeds things along

Spraying the tyre and rim with soapy water will allow the rubber to snap into place at a lower pressure. This is important because many tyres, even those with tubeless-ready beads, should not be inflated to more than 40 or 50psi (depending on volume). Exceeding these pressures can cause damage to the tyre and rim.

Soapy water will allow tires to seat with less effort:

A light spritzing of soapy water on the tyre/rim interface will help the bead pop into place

4. If it won’t work without an air compressor, don’t bother

This is my personal mantra. I want all my tubeless setups to be field serviceable. If I’m on a road trip or at a race and need to swap tyres I still want to be able to run them tubeless.?There’s one cheat I occasionally use to speed things along: remove the valve core when first seating a tyre

Remove the valve core during initial inflation for stubborn tubeless tires:

Remove the valve core during initial inflation for stubborn tubeless tyres

Removing the valve core will allow you to push more air into the tyre faster. Once you hear the bead snap into place, remove the pump and replace the valve core. Don’t worry too much about air loss when reinstalling the valve core; once the bead is locked into place the tyre will be much easier to reinflate.?

5. Check your tyres and add sealant as needed

Tyre sealant has a finite lifespan. Make a point of checking your tyres to ensure the sealant hasn’t dried out. You might find that your sealant remains in liquid form for many months, maybe even a year, if you live in a cool, wet climate. If you live in a dry climate, you might need to add sealant every couple months.

Be sure to add sealant every few months as it will dry out over time:

All the sealant in this tyre has dried out but a fresh splash of sealant will keep it airtight








How to repair a puncture – video

Knowing how to repair a puncture is an essential skill that every cyclist needs to master. It can be daunting for the inexperienced but only takes a few minutes once you know what you’re doing.

In this video, BikeRadar’s James Tennant explains how to carry out the task in a step-by-step walkthough, which demonstrates the procedure on a mountain bike.

Please install Adobe Flash player to view this content

Need to stock up on tools before you start? You can purchase Park Tools used in the video at a number of dealers across the UK and internationally.

Here’s written instructions for those who prefer them to visual demos.

1 Find the puncture

Starting at the valve, check all the way around the tyre’s tread to find the cause of the puncture. Remove any glass or grit that you spot. Even if you find one possible cause, continue checking the tyre until you get back to the valve.

1: 1

2 Remove the tube

Let the air out of the inner tube and push the valve up into the tyre – unscrewing and retaining the valve ring, if fitted. On the side of the wheel opposite the valve, slip a tyre lever under the tyre’s bead and a further tyre lever about 5cm away. Pull the nearer tyre lever (available from all good bike shops) towards you, lifting the tyre’s bead over the edge of the rim.

Continue until one bead of the tyre is completely free of the rim. Pull the tube out. Remove the tyre completely from the rim – with most tyres this can be done by hand unless exceptionally tight.

Note: it’s not always essential to remove the tube from the tyre, as the video above demonstrates.

2: 2

3 Inflate the punctured tube

Inflate the tube and listen for air escaping. Passing the surface of the tube over the lips is a favourite trick of mine. If the hole still can’t be found, re-inflate the tube and pass it through a bowl of water until you spot escaping bubbles. Then dry the tube before proceeding to the next step.

Take care – do not twist a push-fit pump on the valve. The pump should be pushed on straight and pulled off with a single straight pull. The stem nut can easily be broken off if the pump is twisted sideways.

3: 3

4 Prepare the tube

Select the correct size of patch – use a bigger rather than a smaller patch if in doubt. Roughen the surface of the tube around the hole with emery paper. Ensure that any moulding marks are flattened completely. Apply one drop of tyre cement and spread it thinly with your finger over a 2cm circle around the hole. Allow to dry. Apply a second thin layer similarly. Once again, allow to dry – the rubber cement will change from shiny to matt.

4a: 4a

4b: 4b

5 Patch the tube

Inflate the tube slightly – this will help to highlight the position of the hole. Firmly press the patch into place after removing the backing foil. If there’s a thin cellophane backing on the patch, it can be left on. Dust the repair with chalk, talcum powder or road dust to prevent it sticking to the tyre casing.

5a: 5a

5b: 5b

6 Check the casing

Before refitting the tube, double-check the tyre casing from inside for the cause of your puncture. On one occasion after riding a canal towpath with hedge clippings, I found over half a dozen thorns! Placing the tube over the tyre will help to you to discover the position of the puncture. Run your fingertips carefully around the inside of the tyre to feel for the cause of the puncture and remove.

6: 6

7 Refit the tyre

After repairing the tube and checking the tyre for glass, thorns or any other sharp debris, refit one bead to the rim. Slightly inflate the tube and refit it to the rim, putting the valve through its hole first. Starting at the opposite side of the rim to the valve, use your thumbs to lift the tyre’s bead (the part of the tyre that connects the rim to the wheel) over the rim. Work around the rim until there’s just one small section of tyre left. Push the valve up into the tyre and then, using your thumbs, ease the remaining section of the tyre’s bead over the edge of the rim.

7a: 7a

7b: 7b

8 Make final checks

Check that the tube isn’t trapped between the rim and the tyre bead. Inflate to the point where the tyre feels soft but has maintained its shape. Check that the moulding mark around the tyre follows the rim evenly all the way around. If not, deflate a little and ease any high spots down and pull low spots up until the bead is fitted evenly.

Inflate to the recommended pressure and check once again that the tyre’s bead is still seated evenly and that the tyre isn’t lifting off the rim at any point. Finally, check that the tread is running reasonably straight by spinning the wheel. If not, deflate the tyre and start again from the beginning of this step.

8: 8

Puncture fixing tips

  • When taking the tube out of the tyre, note which way the tube was around in the wheel. This will help identify the position of the hole in the tube once the position of the object in the tyre causing the puncture has been found.
  • With a ballpoint pen, mark the hole with a cross so you can pinpoint it accurately.
  • If you don’t have any emery paper, roughen the tube by rubbing it against a stone or the road surface.
  • For tyres that blow off easily: fit a thicker rim tape or a second rim tape – this prevents the tyre bead sinking into the rim well and blowing off the opposite side.
  • For tight tyres: fit a thinner rim tape if possible – this will make your tyres easier to fit and remove.
  • Be very particular with your technique. The last section of the tyre to be fitted to the rim should be at the valve. Make sure that the tyre’s bead is pushed as far as possible into the well of the rim. Some very tight-fitting tyres may need tyre levers to fit them. Using VAR 425 special tyre levers will help to prevent puncturing the innertube when refitting the tyre.

Puncture identification

Two small holes in a tube placed fairly close together indicate a pinch puncture. This is caused by the tube getting trapped between the tyre and the rim when riding over a sharp object. Tyres not inflated hard enough are a frequent cause of this. Check that the tyre’s sidewall isn’t cut. If it is, you may need to use an emergency repair – see the ‘Emergency tyre repairs’ section below.

A hole on the inner side of the tube indicates that the puncture was caused by a spoke head. Check around the inside of the rim to ensure that the rim tape properly covers the spoke holes and no spoke end protrudes above the inner surface of the rim. If this happens it’ll need filing down.

A less common cause of a puncture is a rough edge to the valve hole rim. The puncture will be at the base of the valve and will not be repairable.

Puncture inspection: puncture inspection

Puncture inspection: puncture inspection

Create your own puncture kit

  • Feather edge patches
  • Rubber solution
  • Pair of plastic tyre levers
  • Piece of fine emery paper
  • Small adjustable spanner, if using wheels with hex nuts
  • Allen key if using Allen-bolt-fitting wheels
  • Reliable pump
  • Keyring LED – useful if you’re riding in the dark with a dynamo
  • Always carry a spare tube too.

Pump aside, all this should pack in an underseat bag.

Puncture kit: puncture kit

Weekly check-up

Check your tyres for cuts in the tread, swelling in the sidewall, or serious wear. Tyres with cuts, swelling or casing visible through the tread must be replaced. Remove any grit or glass embedded in the tread. Check your tyre pressures with a proper gauge. Tyres inflated to the correct tyre pressure will have fewer punctures and a longer life. The recommended pressures are normally marked on the sidewall of the tyre.

Use your spare

Repairing a puncture is very difficult in the rain as the patch will not stick to the tube. Instead, fit the spare tube that you always carry! The spare tube is also essential if a tyre blows off a rim, or if the tube is cut by the valve hole.

Emergency tyre repairs

Double over a largish section of heavy duty polythene. Trim off a piece 10cm wider than the gash and 5cm wider than the tyre. Remove the tyre from the rim. Wrap the double layer of the patch around the inside of the tyre casing centred on the slit or cut. With the patch overlapping each side of the casing, refit the first tyre bead, trapping the emergency patch.

Fit a new tube if necessary and inflate it a tad. Refit the second tyre bead with the patched section last. Check that the patch is trapped at both sides. Reinflate the tyre and trim off any excess patch. The patch will be held in place miraculously by the tyre’s air pressure.


Ray Keener: Is cheaper better?

A blog by BPSA executive director Ray Keener Editor’s note: Ray Keener is a longtime friend of Bicycle Retailer and writes occasional columns, blogs and articles for the website and magazine. Ray’s background includes stints as a bike retailer, executive director of the Bicycle Industry Organization, editor of a trade magazine, founder of Growth Cycle and now executive director of the Bicycle Product Suppliers Association. Fred Clements, executive director of the NBDA, recently asked this question on his blog : “Are casual bike consumers being frightened away from shops because of sticker shock?” While Fred focused on selling used bikes as a way to serve lower-priced demand, that isn’t every shop’s option

By WordPress on March 14, 2014 | Folding Bicycle, Health, Nuts

Trail Tech: Spring tune-up tips for beginners

Whether you’ve set your bike aside for snow sports or rode it hard all winter, now is the perfect time to give your machine a thorough inspection to ensure it’s in tip-top shape for spring.

First and foremost, it is always good to settle on a system when inspecting your bicycle. You could divide the task by various categories — e.g., wheels, frame, suspension, brakes, drivetrain, etc. — or you could simply work from front to back. Either method works, so long as you cover all the bases.

Here are 10 things to check over.

Editor’s Note: This list is list is geared towards the beginner and intermediate home mechanic and is by no means exhaustive. Have some insight to share? Leave a comment below.

1. Inspect your tires

Determine how much tread your tires have left and check for knobs that are peeling off as well. Inspect the tire to make sure there are not small tears or thorns stuck in the tire that could become a problem on the trail.

It’s not uncommon for tire casings to give out before you’ve worn out the tread. Check for excessive sidewall wear: look for abrasions and threads protruding from the casings.

If running tubeless, it's a good idea to add sealant to your tires every few months:

If you run your tires tubeless, now is a good time to top off your tires with a fresh scoop or two of your favorite sealant.

How to set up tubeless mountain bike tires

2. Wheels

Spin your wheels to check for any side-to-side wobbles or vertical hops. This is also a good time to make sure the wheels are spinning freely and that the hubs are neither too loose nor too tight. Give the spokes a quick squeeze to make sure none are loose. Tension and true as needed. If you are not comfortable doing that, take the wheel to your favorite shop.

Inspect the wheels: give the spokes a quick squeeze to make sure none are loose:

Take a close look at where the nipples meet the rim; hairline cracks could quickly turn into a major problem.

How to true bicycle wheels

3. Brakes

While checking your wheels for trueness, you hopefully heard the sweet sound of silence as the disc brake rotors spun through the brake calipers. If you heard scraping it may be time to reposition the brake caliper.

If you hear the sound of scraping while spinning the wheels it may be time to reposition the brake caliper:

Brake rotors can also become bent, so pay attention to any side-to-side wobble; this is an easy fix with an adjustable wrench, a quiet workspace, and gentle tweak of the rotor.

Check the brake pads for excessive wear and replace if needed.

How to align your disc brake calipers

How to straighten a bent disc brake rotor

How to remove and replace disc brake pads

4. Suspension

Inspect the fork stanchions for any nicks or scratches. Use a clean rag to wipe off any dirt from the fork seals. Check the seals for cracks or excessive fluid build up; both are signs that your fork may need to be rebuilt.

After inspecting the front and rear shocks be sure to check to make sure your sag is where you want it. increase or decrease air pressure accordingly:

Once everything seems to be in working order, cycle the fork and rear suspension several times before checking your sag settings and adjust your air pressure accordingly.

How to set suspension sag

5. Cockpit

The stem, handlebar and seatpost may be the three most thankless components on a mountain bike. While they need very little in the way of routine adjustments, it is still important to inspect them for signs of damage from time to time.

Remove your seatpost and regrease the seat tube, or use carbon paste if the post is carbon. Remove the handlebar and inspect it for signs of over-clamping; check for deep gouges that could lead to a potential failure down the line.

The stem, handlebar and seatpost may be the three most thankless components on a mountain bike. while they need very little in the way of routine adjustments, it is still important to inspect them for signs of damage from time to time:

When it’s time to reinstall the handlebar, make sure the stem is straight, the headset properly adjusted (there should be no play or binding as the handlebar moves back and forth) and position the brakes and shifters to your liking. Be sure to tighten everything to its proper torque.

How to adjust handlebar height

How to service a headset

Are wider handlebars better?

6. Shift and brake lines

Check derailleur housing for signs of wear, paying special attention to where the cables stop on the frame, as it is not uncommon for the wires encased in the plastic derailleur housing to pull through the ferrules at the end of the casing. Replace worn cables and housing as needed.

Replace worn or frayed derailleur cables:

Follow a similar system for the brake and dropper seatpost if applicable.

Follow the brakes from the levers to the calipers checking for signs of wear and scuff marks.

How to replace and adjust derailleur cables

How to replace a hydraulic brake hose

?7. Frame

After inspecting the shift and brake lines for wear, it is also a good idea to check the frame. Brake and shifter housing that is allowed to rub excessively against a frame can and will chew through steel, carbon and aluminum frames. It’s easy enough to prevent this with a few small strips of protective tape.

Small rubber cable covers can prevent marring and silence cable slap:

Examine the frame for signs damage from rock strikes, pay particular attention to the down tube and chainstays.

If you ride a full suspension, be sure to check the suspension pivots and shock bushings for any signs of play.

Tips to protect your frame from wear and tear

7. Drivetrain

Without a functional drivetrain you’ll be going nowhere fast.

Shift through the gears, there should be no popping or skipping from one cog to another without you moving the shift levers.

Inspect the derailleur hanger to ensure it’s not bent.

Without a functional drivetrain you’ll be going nowhere fast:

Examine the teeth on the chainrings and cassette cogs for signs of bent or broken teeth. Keep in mind that on most modern components the teeth have varying shapes to aid in moving the chain from one cog to another.

Inspect the chain for wear, ideally with a chain-checker tool. Over time the bushings that make up the chain’s rollers wear down and develop play, this play allows the chain to “stretch.”

How to adjust a front derailleur

How to adjust a rear derailleur

How to check for chain wear

How to fix a broken chain

9. Frame fasteners

While some of these nuts and bolts would have been covered while looking over your brakes, cockpit, frame and drivetrain, this is still worth its own mention.

If you don’t own a torque wrench and plan on doing your own bike maintenance, buy one. keep a list of the manufacturer’s recommended torque values whenever possible:

If you don’t own a torque wrench and plan on doing your own bike maintenance, buy one. Keep a list of the manufacturer’s recommended torque values whenever possible. Pay special attention to those bolts that you rely on to keep your smile intact: stem, handlebar, brakes, shifters.

Why torque wrenches are invaluable

10. Prep your gear

Last but not least, take a few minutes to go over the gear that connects you to the bike.

Last but not least, take a few minutes to go over the gear that connects you to the bike. check to make sure the buckles on your shoes are in good shape and that your cleats are firming screwed in:

Check to make sure the buckles on your shoes are in good shape and that your cleats are firming screwed in.

Examine your helmet for cracks and replace if needed.

If you ride with a hydration pack, take the time to clean it out and repack it. Have a bladder in need of cleaning? Never bothered to throw out any of the energy bar wrappers? Have several punctured tubes stuffed in the bottom of your bag? Now is the time to deal with all of this.

Inspect your tools, too. Make sure your shock pump and mini pump are both in working order. If you carry a first-aid kit, replace anything you used.

Telltale signs it’s time to replace your helmet

What to pack for long mountain bike rides

Have something to add to the list? Leave your comments below.


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By admin on March 3, 2014 | Mountain Bikes, Nuts, Safety
Tags: , , , , , , ,

Copenhagenize Design Co. Moves Office by Cargo Bike


Last week, Copenhagenize Design Company moved from our old office in Frederiksberg, down to the harbour area of Copenhagen. Our new home is Papirøen, or ‘Paper Island,’?an artificial island just across the water from The Royal Danish Playhouse and Nyhavn. It was first used by the army as somewhere to put their weaponry, and then from 1958 the island was for many decades used for the storage of huge rolls of paper imported from Sweden, ready for use by Danish newspapers. Hence the name. (Interestingly almost the whole of Christianshavn was for a long time entirely used by the military, until the ‘Copenhagenization’?of the Danish military by the British in 1807 meant that suddenly the navy didn’t need so much space. So you could say we are re-Copenhagenizing Christianshavn)


Until the long awaited completion of the Inderhavnsbroen cycle and pedestrian bridge, this side of the harbour is a little isolated from the rest of the city, despite its central location. ?This has meant that in recent years, the site has become what the Copenhagen Post called ‘an industrial no-man’s-land,’home to the city’s harbour cruise company, but not much else.

However, things are starting to change. Last year, the old industrial warehouses were converted into a set of offices housing our new neighbours, including Calvin Klein, Tommy Hilfiger, COBE Architects and Purpose Makers (the company of Ole, of ‘Cycling Without Age’ fame) . It is also temporarily home to the Experimentarium, a science and technology centre and one of Copenhagen’s biggest attractions, which will be on the island for 2 years whilst its permanent home in Hellerup is modernised. This gives the space around our new offices a healthy mix of creative workers and exuberant school kids.

We were all very excited about moving. But we had to get there first. How to do so was a no-brainer. As our work on the Cycle Logistics project has shown, the cargo bike is a versatile tool for goods transportation: 51% of deliveries currently made by motorized transport could be made by bike. Aside from anything else, cargo bike was the most logical and convenient way for us to move.?

Copenhagenize Moves Office from Copenhagenize on Vimeo.

We put together this short film of the trip – what was interesting to note along the way was that although we were in a convoy of three heavily-laden cargo bikes, nobody en route batted an eyelid. Cargo Bikes are normal on Copenhagen’s streets: ?25% of?families?with two or more children have one.

Apart from having to balance holding a camera with keeping my eyes on the road, it was otherwise a sedate, unremarkable glide through Copenhagen, just like every day. Loading up the cargo bikes took just a few minutes, and the trip itself was an easy ride of just a little over 6km. It was a lovely sunny day too, which helped, but even aside from that little stroke of luck, there’s no way hiring a van, negotiating it through the city-centre traffic, and having to return it at the end of the day would have been as simple, easy and enjoyable as moving office via cargo bike.
Below are some photos of our new place and the island itself – we’re looking forward to the summer and spending some quality time out in the sun overlooking the water.





Copenhagenize the planet. And have a lovely day.

Gluten-free energy bars and recipes

Consuming bars, gels and drinks while on the bike is standard practice for most riders, but it can be a different story if you have special dietary requirements such as Coeliac disease or gluten intolerance.

Coeliac disease affects one in every 100 people, with nearly 75 percent of cases going undiagnosed according to Coeliac Australia.

BikeRadar recently spoke with endurance mountain bike athlete Andrew Blair of team Swell-Specialized about how he manages his Coeliac disease. The 2012 Australian mountain bike marathon champion said: “It took me many years, but I’ve learned that it’s not a hindrance to my performance. It doesn’t stop me from being my best.”

Blair told BikeRadar that it’s definitely easier than it used to be, as most gels and sports drinks are now gluten-free. “I don’t eat solid foods during races, but when training I prefer to eat real food,” he said. “I often make my own cake, which is tasty and full of appropriate energy.” (Blair’s cake is similar to Jo Hogan’s recipe below.)

Blair mentioned the importance of not self-diagnosing Coeliac disease or gluten intolerance and consulting your GP doctor before taking any action – cutting out gluten could mean that a proper diagnoses cannot be made.

Many grocery stores have nearly doubled their gluten-free selections in recent years, and more people have chosen to live gluten-free by preference, so there’s way more choice for Coeliac sufferers than there used to be.

BikeRadar has assembled a list of gluten-free energy bars and recipes that have proven to work well for those with food allergies – as well as those without.

Gluten-free energy bars

Em’s Power Cookie Bars

Em's power cookies now have a 100% gluten free option - chocolate cranberry craze: em's power cookies now have a 100% gluten free option - chocolate cranberry craze

AU$4.95 per bar / US$N/A / ?N/A

Em’s Power Cookie Bars are three-time multi-sport world champion and nutritionist Emily Miazga’s homemade cookies. Em wanted something closer to real food during her races and began using her power cookies as fuel. Of the five available flavours, chocolate cranberry craze is the only gluten-free option, however this is also BikeRadar’s favourite.

www.powercookies.com

Bonk Breaker

Bonk breaker are available in 11 flavours, all gluten and dairy free: bonk breaker are available in 11 flavours, all gluten and dairy free

AU$4.50 per bar / US$3 per bar / ?43 for 12 (from UKhealthspot.co.uk)

With a fresh homemade taste, Bonk Breaker uses only the best ingredients in its bars. Now the official bars of the Ironman Series and the USA Cycling Team, all 11 flavours are certified by the Gluten-Free Certification Organization and are also dairy-free.

www.bonkbreaker.com / firstendurance.com.au

LARABAR

Larabar - fruits, nuts and spices: larabar - fruits, nuts and spices

From AU $2.60 per bar / US$1.79 per bar / From ?23.99 for 16 (from astronutrition.com)

LARABARs are made from a mix of unsweetened fruits, nuts and spices, and that’s it. There are no more than nine ingredients in any given bar, and every flavour – bar those with chocolate chips – are kosher, vegan, and gluten- and dairy-free.

Raw Revolution Bar

Made of mostly raw ingredients, these claim to offer greater nutritional value for the given size : made of mostly raw ingredients, these claim to offer greater nutritional value for the given size

AU$3.30 per bar / US$1.89 per bar / ?20.43 for 12 (from UKhealthspot.co.uk)

The ingredients in Raw Revolution bars are 80 to 100 percent raw; the company claims this eliminates any loss of nutrients through the cooking process. All products are vegan, gluten- and dairy-free, non-GMO and organic.

www.rawrev.com

Gluten-free recipes for on-the bike

Jo Hogan’s secret recipe: Raw cacao energy slice

Jo hogan's raw cacao energy slice: jo hogan's raw cacao energy slice

Australian professional cyclist Jo Hogan, aka the Healthy Cyclist, suffers from coeliac disease, as well lactose intolerance. This homemade energy bar is ideal for her riding nutrition needs.

Ingredients

  • 1/3 cup of almond meal
  • 1/2 cup of desiccated coconut
  • 1/4 cup of Raw cacao powder
  • 1/4 cup raisins
  • 1/4 cup honey
  • 1 teaspoon cinnamon
  • 1/4 teaspoon salt

Method

  1. Combine all ingredients in a bowl and mix until a dough is formed.
  2. Shape tablespoons full of mixture into balls and place on a tray. Alternatively, place all the mixture in a slice tray and flatten with a spatula.
  3. This mixture can be baked for 15 to 20 minutes in an oven heated to 180?C or simply chilled in the fridge.

Allen Lim’s bacon and egg rice cakes

Allen lim's bacon and egg rice cakes have become a popular recipe in the pro peloton : allen lim's bacon and egg rice cakes have become a popular recipe in the pro peloton

Lim says: “I started making these rice cakes at training camps and races to give riders something savory and fresh to eat while on the bike. They became a huge hit, since almost everything the riders ate was pre-packaged and sweet. Not only are these rice cakes delicious, they also provide a consistent energy source that doesn’t upset the stomach.”

Ingredients

  • 2 cups uncooked calrose or other medium-grain ’sticky’ rice
  • 3 cups water
  • 8 oz bacon
  • 4 eggs
  • 2 tablespoons liquid amino acids or low-sodium soy sauce brown sugar salt and grated parmesan (optional)

Method

  1. Combine rice and water in a rice cooker.
  2. While rice is cooking, chop up bacon, then fry in a medium saut? pan. When crispy, drain off fat and soak up excess with paper towels.
  3. Beat the eggs in a small bowl and then scramble on high heat in the saut? pan. Don’t worry about overcooking the eggs as they’ll break up easily when mixed with the rice.
  4. In a large bowl or in the rice cooker bowl, combine the cooked rice, bacon, and scrambled eggs. Add liquid amino acids or soy sauce and sugar to taste. After mixing, press into a roughly 20cm square baking pan to about 1 1/2in thickness. Top with more brown sugar, salt to taste, and grated parmesan, if desired.
  5. Cut and wrap individual cakes.

This makes about 10 rice cakes in 30 minutes.

Tip: Always use calrose rice, a strain of medium-grain rice common in Asian cooking. This variety cooks fast (in 20 minutes or less), retains a nutty flavor, and is just sticky enough to hold our cakes together. If you can’t find it, use another medium-grain rice or any kind marked ’sushi rice’.

This recipe was republished with permission of VeloPress from The Feed Zone Cookbook, by Chef Biju Thomas and Dr Allen Lim. The book features 150 athlete-friendly recipes that are simple, delicious and easy to prepare. Try more pre-ride, portable and post-ride recipes at FeedZoneCookbook.com.


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Amercian Students Rethink Copenhagen Neighbourhood Part 02

Mikael, on behalf of Copenhagenize Design Co., is a teacher in the Bicycle Urbanism Studio led by urban liveability expert Bianca Hermansen at the Danish Institute for Study Abroad (DIS). Since 1959, DIS has given American students the chance to study in Denmark. Our Bicycle Urbanism Studio features American architecture students.

Mikael led a portion of the course involving a massive Desire Lines analysis of two intersections at either end of the Dybbøls Bridge in the Vesterbro neighbourhood. The students’ final project was broader than that. They were given the task of rethinking the entire area. The wide swathe of unused railyards, access to the harbour and bicycle traffic through the area.?

Working with the students was brilliant and inspiring. Mikael was also an external examiner on the final projects at DIS. We thought it worthwhile to get the students to present their projects in short form. Showing off their abilities, ideas and visions. We’ll divide them up into two articles. Here’s the second one.?

Many of the students mention “Bicycle Snake – Cykelslangen”. This refers to the coming elevated cycle track in the area. Here’s a map of the area in question.

DAVID MITCHELL

Our Urban Design Studio features the analysis of the existing bicycle infrastructure connecting Vesterbro, Fisketorvet Mall and the Fisketorvet Bridge and a proposal based on the information documented in our research. ?The research component of the studio consisted of video taping bicycle behavior (monumentalists, recklists, and conformists), counting the number of parked bicycles by the hour, and documenting conflict zones. ?These details, which are so often overlooked by the every day user, are the components that we, as designers, used to design. ?This form of development is called “fact-based decision making” and is a form of research that I found to be enlightening. ?At a personal level, I chose to focus on how to best resolve areas of conflict between cyclists and pedestrians, reduce automobile traffic, and facilitate the needs of families living in Vesterbro. ?
A whopping twenty-four percent of residents in Vesterbro own cargo bikes. ?This means that these people have found an environmentally friendly way to not only travel, but perform errands, whether that be grocery shopping, dropping off kids at friends’ houses, or picking up flowers. ?Improving safety conditions for these travelers is the driving factor behind my design. ?Also, a statistically significant aspect of the project is how many users per day currently use the inconvenient staircase depicted below. ?A staggering 4,700 users on the day of our observation. ?And, with the installation of the snake, we can expect travelers between Vesterbro and the bridge to increase.
Nearly 5,000 travelers use this staircase to get to their final destination, daily. ?Proposing a convenient and safe alternative to this is one of the demands of the project.
The plan proposed is meant to be a realistic reconfiguration of the site. ?The bridge, which currently has a large void ought be filled. ?With the creation of new space I propose a walking promenade with a series of overlook and nodal spaces which allows for people to sit and watch pedestrians go along to either the mall or Vesterbro. ?Beneath the bridge, and expanding northeast and southwest is a park which connects with the larger context of Amagerfaelled. ?Access would be gained from the s-tog platform or ramps descending from the bridge.?
Riders ascending to the level of the shopping mall are greeted by a bi-directional bike path, with distinguishable paving patterns, to clearly delineate spatial usage. ?By combining the bike lanes, pedestrians are no longer at risk of accidents by bikers. ?I have proposed to close down one of the ramps curving up to the plaza level and be replaced by a department store and a series of mom and pa shops which align the northeastern edge of the street. ??
A section of spatial types along the proposed bridge shows which type of users are being provided for; green= pedestrian, yellow= bicycle, red= automobile, blue= bio-swale, and orange= nodal space. ?This section cut goes through two nodal spaces, the larger of which overlooks green space to the northeast.

ELAINE STOKES


The area surrounding the Fisketorvet shopping center consists of zones of extremely high and extremely low use.? While the bridge crossing over the Dybbølsbro S-Tog station experiences such high pedestrian usage during afternoon and evening hours that people overflow sidewalks and crowd the cycling lane, the unused land below the bridge is left completely vacant for the majority of the day.? Additionally, most road space leading up to Fisketorvet is allocated to cars, even though car traffic falls far behind cyclist and pedestrian traffic during all hours of the day.

The Cykelslangen, or “Bicycle Snake,” is the current solution supported by Copenhagen municipality to improve cyclist flow through the Fisketorvet-Dybbølsbro area, yet this design fails to improve the livability of the neighborhood, nor does it increase resources for pedestrians who pass through the area.
Instead, the Inhabit—Habitat proposal seeks to remedy the Fisketorvet-Dybbølsbro area by creating accessible connections between retail, the harborfront, and open green space, while also improving storm water management and the natural habitats of the site.? Instead of simply remedying the cyclist route through the area, this proposal calls for a complete restructuring of the traffic hierarchy of the site.
First, by transforming the Dybbølsbro Bridge into a gradual ramp rising from the ground level of the Fisketorvet mall to cross over the S-Tog stop, cyclists could remain at ground level while traveling past the mall from Brygge Broen.? This, in turn, would eliminate the need for the Cycle Snake to be elevated.
Next, the car entrance to Fisketorvet would be relocated to the southwest side of the mall and the freeway along Kalvebod Brygge would be simplified and narrowed, making the northern side of Fisketorvet available for additional retail space reflecting a typical Copenhagen streetscape.



Finally, the unused land adjacent to the S-Tog stop would be allowed to return to a natural habitat, with inlets from the harbor uniting the park to the new retail development and the waterfront.? Through these measures, the disjointed spaces of the Fisketorvet-Dybbølsbro zone would be refitted to form a cohesive, environmentally conscious, accessible, and livable neighborhood center.

MICHELLE WOODS

Urban Current: a surge of life through Dybbølsbro

With 26 total hours of recorded video footage made up of 13 hours of documentation at the Fisketorvet Shopping Center intersection and 13 hours at the Dybbølsbro intersection, a large amount of data and insight into how cyclists move through and within our site was observed.

First Impressions

From on-site observations and viewing of the video footage, the first thing I thought of was how this site did not seem to reflect the values of Copenhagen.? Cars and other vehicular traffic are placed ahead of cyclists and pedestrians. The infrastructure allows for easy and flowing car movement, while cyclists and pedestrians face crowded spaces, stairs, and other obstacles throughout the site.

The site also creates a large disconnect between the vibrant neighborhood of Vesterbro and the harborfront. While walking across the Dybbølsbro bridge, there seems to be no presence or atmosphere. The punctuation of the bridge in the Fisketorvet mall also does not add much to the site.

Proposed Solution

A 20 year plan that restructures the site will help to bring life back to the area.?

The first proposed action would be to make a huge infrastructural change. A bridge with infrastructure of separated lanes for cyclists and pedestrians should be built on both sides of the car lanes. Eliminating the bridge and flattening the infrastructure by Fisketorvet would result in a ramped structure that would curve to connect cyclists and pedestrians directly into the ground level next to the mall, creating a smooth connection. A new, normal intersection would be created. This change places the needs of cyclists and pedestrians ahead of that of cars and stays in line with the values of Copenhagen.

The next step in this plan would be to develop the empty land beneath the current bridge. Having a development of mixed-use buildings and great public streets and gathering spaces can bring a new vibrancy to the site. This development would also be able to pay for the large infrastructural changes that would occur prior to this.?

Although a large and ambitious plan, I think that this restructuring and development of the entire site would in the long run bring a new and exciting life to the site that would celebrate the everyday cyclists and pedestrians.

Copenhagenize the planet. And have a lovely day.

100 Cargo Bikes in Boulogne-Billancourt

Photes via:?Michel & Augustin

We kick off another great year for cargo bikes with wonderful news from France. The City of Boulogne-Billancourt, near Paris, is launching a project called 100 Triporteurs – 100 Cargo Bikes – in Boulogne-Billancourt. It’s a project that Copenhagenize Design Co. loves and it is perfect inspiration for our Cyclelogistics.eu project.
The company Michel & Augustin is known for both its creative marketing and its delicious cookies. They were looking for a new media to communicate through and that can contribute to a positive paradigm shift in urban life. Together with the Danish cargo bike brand, Nihola, they are launching a cargo bike project aimed at changing peoples perceptions about how to get around the city.
Thanks to this project, citizens in Boulogne-Billancourt can buy a Nihola cargo bike for €1000, instead of €2600. They can also be a part of the new community of Citizen Cyclists who want to make some life changes and also take part in events organised by the funky company.
Michel & Augustin think an urban revolution is possible by using innovative means of transport. Not surprisingly, we at Copenhagenize Design Company feel the same way. Bikes and cargo bikes are fantastic tools for changing urban life for the better. Cargo bikes are a perfect means of transport for families and we our proud to be a part of the CycleLogistics.eu project.
Here is the video about the beginning of the paradigm shift in the Paris area.

100 triporteurs dans Boulogne-B from Michel et Augustin on Vimeo.

Copenhagenize the planet. And have a lovely day.